I’m actually starting to understand the driving and traffic. It’s just a completely different approach to the road, the vehicles and the activity of moving along the road. We, in America, approach driving with a somber formality. We fuss over the wax job of our cars, watch for radar traps in rural areas and – even if some of us might scoot through a red light now and then, we follow the traffic laws. Lane lines are sacrosanct. Passengers and surrounding vehicles will actually ridicule a driver for moving out of their lane. We also adhere to the guidelines inherent in the structure of the car. Intended for two people, with two seatbelts, that’s who we will put there. Every once in a while we might cram one extra person. But not if it is someone else’s kid! Here in India, it just isn’t like that. The road is a road. It is a flat smooth place along which to walk or ride. It may actually be more like a river, with a natural yet relentless flow. There is nothing formal about how you move down the road. You walk, you cycle, you power your two wheeler or you cram into a taxi if there is enough place for your foot to find purchase. Then everyone moves. It took me a little while to recognize the game in it – it’s a match. It’s a bit competitive, yes, but it is a team sport. Everyone is trying to get somewhere and everyone wants that to work out for everyone else. So there are these rules – and of course there is the hierarchy of vehicles, animals, people. It is actually starting to make sense. (Have I been in India too long?)
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal
Agra Fort, lunch, Taj Mahal. Ho hum. NOT! I can't believe I finally really went to the Taj Mahal!!!
My personal Photos and commentary:
https://picasaweb.google.com/sljoslyn/20110317_AgraFortAndTajMahal?authkey=Gv1sRgCIv5zvvn5oSGZQ&feat=directlink
Background:
My personal Photos and commentary:
https://picasaweb.google.com/sljoslyn/20110317_AgraFortAndTajMahal?authkey=Gv1sRgCIv5zvvn5oSGZQ&feat=directlink
Background:
The Taj Maal is a mausoleum located in Agra, Inda by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, the grandson of Emperor Akbar, in the memory of his deceased queen Arjumand Bano Begum, who was more popularly known as Mumtaz Mahal who was also the niece of empress Nur Jahan. Construction began in 1631 and took 22 years to complete with a work force of more than 20,000 men. It was finally finished in 1653 at a cost of 32 million Rupee or $400 million in today’s prices.
Shah Jahan was born Prince Khurram in 1592, the eldest son of Jahangir, the fourth Mughal Emperor after Babur, Humayun and Akbar. He assumed the title Shah Jahan, which comes from Persian meaning "King of the World" when, at the age of 36 he succeeded his father to become the fifth Mughal Emperor in 1628.After reigning 30 years he became desperately ill and the word spread, erroneously, that he had died. This sparked a save power battle between his sons for the throne. His third son, Aurangzeb, emerged victorious having killed two brothers with the fourth fleeing into exile.Shah Jahan, having been a mere spectator at the savage contest, was then imprisoned by in the Agra fort for the remaining eight years of his life. He was tended by Jahanara, his eldest daughter, throughout his imprisonment. And, according to legend, on his death-bed, he kept his eyes fixed on the Taj Mahal which was clearly visible from his place of confinement. Laid in a separate tomb alongside his beloved Mumtaz Hahal, the Taj Mahal became the final resting place of Shah Jahan.
Shah Jahan was born Prince Khurram in 1592, the eldest son of Jahangir, the fourth Mughal Emperor after Babur, Humayun and Akbar. He assumed the title Shah Jahan, which comes from Persian meaning "King of the World" when, at the age of 36 he succeeded his father to become the fifth Mughal Emperor in 1628.After reigning 30 years he became desperately ill and the word spread, erroneously, that he had died. This sparked a save power battle between his sons for the throne. His third son, Aurangzeb, emerged victorious having killed two brothers with the fourth fleeing into exile.Shah Jahan, having been a mere spectator at the savage contest, was then imprisoned by in the Agra fort for the remaining eight years of his life. He was tended by Jahanara, his eldest daughter, throughout his imprisonment. And, according to legend, on his death-bed, he kept his eyes fixed on the Taj Mahal which was clearly visible from his place of confinement. Laid in a separate tomb alongside his beloved Mumtaz Hahal, the Taj Mahal became the final resting place of Shah Jahan.
Delhi to Agra - Akbar's Tomb, Hindu Temples and Road Warriors
On the road before dawn for the five hour drive in to Agra. Furiously snapping pictures out the window, eyes bugged, tongue sunburned... the driver? Amused. His name was Sheersay - no idea how it is really spelled but that's the best I can say it. He was a great companion - a skillful driver. I came to appreciate how skillful as I gradually grokked the whole life-on-the-road ... or maybe it is the-road-as-life.
This photo album is dedicated to the drive to Agra. The commentary is in the albums.
https://picasaweb.google.com/sljoslyn/20110317DehliToAgra?authkey=Gv1sRgCK6Irq7LoqTJxQE&feat=directlink
This photo album is dedicated to the drive to Agra. The commentary is in the albums.
https://picasaweb.google.com/sljoslyn/20110317DehliToAgra?authkey=Gv1sRgCK6Irq7LoqTJxQE&feat=directlink
Friday, April 1, 2011
Happy Birthday to me in Southern India
Woke up on my 52nd birthday in Bangalore, India! How surreal. When I went down for coffee my usual guy wasn't working. The new guy responds to my request for coffee with the query: "black?" to which I respond "milk please" and then he says "Indian coffee?" Well, now I say "yes" because I don't care what that is, I want it. Turns out it is the coffee I've enjoyed every other morning since I've been here. So now I have to look it up. I find the answers to the questions I had wondered about:
South Indian Coffee, also known as Filter Coffee is a sweet milky coffee made from dark roasted coffee beans (70%-80%) and chicory (20%-30%), especially popular in the southern states of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. (Bangalore is in Karnataka.) South Indian coffee is brewed with a metal device that resembles two cylindrical cups, one of which has a pierced bottom that nests into the top of the "tumbler" cup, leaving ample room underneath to receive the brewed coffee. The upper cup has two removable parts: a pierced pressing disc with a central stem handle, and a covering lid. The upper cup is loaded with fresh ground coffee mixed with chicory (~2 tablespoons of mixture per serving). The grounds are gently compressed with the stemmed disc into a uniform layer across the cup's pierced bottom. With the press disc left in place, the upper cup is nested into the top of the tumbler and boiling water is poured inside. The lid is placed on top, and the device is left to slowly drip the brewed coffee into the bottom. The chicory sort of holds on to the hot water a little longer, letting the water extract more flavour from the coffee powder. The brew is generally stronger than western "drip style" coffee.
And while I was on a google-roll, I looked up my breakfast: Poha - a vegetarian dish of pressed rice seasoned with cumin, turmeric and indian spices. It is served with a coconut chutney (complete with green and red chiles). Yep, that's what I've been having. I just thought of it as "breakfast curry".
After breakfast I worked out, worked for awhile, organized my packing and then met my taxi driver - the same man (nickname: Nag) who took me to Mysore the day before. Off to the airport - I took many pictures on the way again. (Album here.) Once in the airport I had a frozen coffee and then a very pleasant flight on Kingfisher Airline.
Arriving in Delhi I was met outside of customs by a handsome young man bearing a bouquet of flowers and a card with my name on it. Turns out that Deepa remembered that I had mentioned it would be my birthday. Not only did I have flowers at the airport - and trust me, lots of people were met by a guy with their name on a board, but NOBODY else had flowers waiting! - but the folks at guesthouse where I stayed had baked me a cake! An incredibly yummy chocolate one! Except for the part about not being near any of my loved ones, it was a very nice birthday!
South Indian Coffee, also known as Filter Coffee is a sweet milky coffee made from dark roasted coffee beans (70%-80%) and chicory (20%-30%), especially popular in the southern states of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. (Bangalore is in Karnataka.) South Indian coffee is brewed with a metal device that resembles two cylindrical cups, one of which has a pierced bottom that nests into the top of the "tumbler" cup, leaving ample room underneath to receive the brewed coffee. The upper cup has two removable parts: a pierced pressing disc with a central stem handle, and a covering lid. The upper cup is loaded with fresh ground coffee mixed with chicory (~2 tablespoons of mixture per serving). The grounds are gently compressed with the stemmed disc into a uniform layer across the cup's pierced bottom. With the press disc left in place, the upper cup is nested into the top of the tumbler and boiling water is poured inside. The lid is placed on top, and the device is left to slowly drip the brewed coffee into the bottom. The chicory sort of holds on to the hot water a little longer, letting the water extract more flavour from the coffee powder. The brew is generally stronger than western "drip style" coffee.
And while I was on a google-roll, I looked up my breakfast: Poha - a vegetarian dish of pressed rice seasoned with cumin, turmeric and indian spices. It is served with a coconut chutney (complete with green and red chiles). Yep, that's what I've been having. I just thought of it as "breakfast curry".
After breakfast I worked out, worked for awhile, organized my packing and then met my taxi driver - the same man (nickname: Nag) who took me to Mysore the day before. Off to the airport - I took many pictures on the way again. (Album here.) Once in the airport I had a frozen coffee and then a very pleasant flight on Kingfisher Airline.
Daytrip to Mysore - the Ides of March
Gaya's taxi-driver picked me up promptly at 7a and we were off on another madcap taxi ride. It was about a three hour drive to Mysore. There are a number of historical monuments - I didn't know much about them and the taxi driver didn't know much English. He did get me everywhere safely and I took a lot of pictures. Back "home" in the late afternoon and an evening of work. I'll just post the album with commentary for now.
https://picasaweb.google.com/sljoslyn/20110315?authkey=Gv1sRgCNu5rouC7ZjMhAE&feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/sljoslyn/20110315?authkey=Gv1sRgCNu5rouC7ZjMhAE&feat=directlink
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)